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The roots of this watch are in a timepiece which is the antithesis of slimness: the 2015 Vacheron pocket link watch reference 57260, which had by Vacheron's count 57 complications and link which remains today the most link complicated watch, pocket or otherwise, ever made.

In 1993 Chanel acquired the Swiss manufacturer G&F link Châtelain in La Chaux-de-Fonds. But it would be another seven whole years before Helleu link would go on to release the J12 in 2000. Despite having worked at Chanel since the age link of 18 and being immersed in the brand's design and creative processes, Helleu still worked to finesse the design of the J12 for the entire intervening period.