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The Spirit, in my mind, is where Longines has successfully married the two together. The Zulu Time GMT references a 1920s watch that many people won't be familiar with, link but link it also reinforces Longines' strength link in the aviation category. All the while, it's serving up a contemporary design language that should appeal to both neophyte buyers and dyed-in-the-wool collectors.

We're in this collector-driven world where we identify minute changes made to every watch, Ku says. While that's not necessarily a bad thing, he says sometimes this is done to serve the purpose of making things seem rarer than they actually are. "To me, Pas Cher Tudor Black Bay 58 interesting variants are those that are clearly visible to the naked Replica Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra eye from a few feet away. That's not the case with any of Replica TAG Heuer Carrera 39mm Precious Blue these, and there's not one version that's super rare."